Alex Gavan, Everest: exista un timp pentru a actiona si un timp pentru a vorbi

April 27th, 2015

Ma stiu cu Alex Gavan de cativa ani buni deja. Are chestia aia pe care o gasesti la oamenii mari, o combinatie de aroganta data de experienta si lucrurile vazute si facute, si humbleness in momente cheie. E greu sa spui ca-i umil, ar trebui sa fii superficial sa zici ca-i arogant.

De cate ori ne vedem, invariabil, vine vorba si despre muntii pe care ii urca Alex. Prima data cand am vorbit despre asta nu alergam si nu mergeam la triatloane, mi-era deci imposibil sa ma raportez in vreun fel la efortul si pregatirea fizica si psihica de care e nevoie pentru a face performanta intr-un sport. Asa ca m-am raportat la motive: de ce ar urca cineva munti de peste 8000 de metri si de ce si-ar risca viata sa faca asta fara oxigen suplimentar? Deschid o paranteza, ca sa intelegem mai bine ce inseamna asta:

Climbers use supplemental oxygen to give them an edge while pushing to the summit of a mountain like Everest at 8850 meters. At that altitude, the available oxygen is 33% of that at sea level. It is like running up a staircase while holding your breath 2 out 3 steps. To summit Everest without using any supplemental oxygen anytime on the climb is rare, it is estimated less than 100 out of the over 6500 summits have been accomplished in this pure manner. Sursa: Alan Arnette

Deci, Alex, de ce fara oxigen suplimentar? S-a entuziasmat, ca toti oamenii misto atunci cand vorbesc despre lucrurile aproape de sufletul lor. Mi-a explicat cum, din punctul lui de vedere, a urca cu oxigen ar insemna o lipsa de respect fata de munte. Ar simti-o ca pe-o carja, ar simti ca triseaza. Si nu poti trisa cu muntele. Am simtit acolo un “Andrei, cu muntele nu te joci!” spus prieteneste, ca unuia care poate o sa ajunga vreodata pe acolo si trebuie neaparat sa aiba informatia asta esentiala! Am vorbit vreo ora si ceva doar despre asta in prima noastra intalnire.

Am povestit despre business, despre mindset, despre carti, public speaking si despre a-i ajuta pe ceilalti. Insa respectul asta pentru munte l-am regasit in fiecare intalnire, in fiecare discutie, in fiecare update de Facebook de pe pagina lui pe care o urmaresc cu sufletul la gura de fiecare data cand stiu ca pleaca sa lupte, umil, cu alt munte.

Alex e pe Everest acum, in incercarea de a urca pe Lhotse. Fara oxigen, bineinteles. Si bineinteles ca intram zilnic pe pagina de Facebook sa vad ce mai scriu el si echipa lui de suport, sa vad cum este.

Pe 24 aprilie, la 15:07, a publicat un update lung, despre aceste incercari din ultimii ani. Preiau aici o parte din update:

For two times, back in 2009 and in 2014 I had to abort my oxygen-less attempts on Everest. In 2009 I thought a particular area in the Icefall as being too much unstable for my taste and I called it a day. In 2014 the same particular area that made me retreat in 2009 was the scene of the single biggest one time disaster in the history of Everest, when 16 people died. Why so many people and what is to be learn from it, it is something to be let for another post.

By having firstly done the Lobuche ascent, I reduced by at least two the number of crossings through the Icefall. I can now skip setting a Camp 1 at 6000m (in a place that was more than one time avalanched in the past), and I can go straight and put Camp 2 (my actual Camp 1) at 6400m.

[…]
Now, there are scores of people here, 99,99% using supplementary oxygen and too many of them having dubious mountaineering experience. The Base Camp of Mighty Everest/Lhotse should not be the place when barely one learns how to put on a pair of crampons or fit a harness. But this is just what you are witnessing these days while Western and Sherpa Guides are taking many of their clients into the start of the Icefall for teaching them the basics. Safety in numbers has never been more deceptive. Not much to my liking but thanks heaven what is happening on most of the other 8000-ers is quite different than here.

I am having the feeling that we, through our own collective behaviour, that is mainly shown in a lack of respect and a lack of humbleness, we are making this mountains angrier and angrier. And we then wonder why apparently inexplicable accidents happen.

One must first achieve merit in order to be allowed entrance into the abode of the Gods. And merit is never achieved through cutting corners and cheating your way up to the top. Just my two cents!

Tashi Delek everyone!


sursa fotografiei si mai multe informatii: blog WSJ

A doua zi, pe 25 aprilie, la 8 dimineata, Alex posta:

Everest base camp huge earthquake then huge avalanche from pumori.Running for life from my tent. Unhurt. Many many people up the mountain.

Apoi, in orele urmatoare:


Huge disaster.Helped searched and rescued victims through huge debris area.Many dead.Much more badly injured.More to die if not heli asap.

***

all badly injured heli evacuated. many people contributed. white night with meg and rachel in img camp, caring for those needing. want sleep
***

willie benegas helicoptered into westerm cwm/camp1 to bring ropes/ice screws /snow pickets to the many climbers trapped above khumbu icefall
***

Some teams have already left the place, their camps being completely destroyed. Some people are even sleeping with helmets and boots on.

E unul dintre momentele alea in care iti doresti sa nu fi avut dreptate, stiu asta. Insa, din fericire, si deloc intamplator, Alex e okay si sunt convins ca ajuta victimele sa fie gasite si evacuate in siguranta. Nu in ultimul rand, am sa va las cu raspunsul transmis de Alex pe 25 aprilie, prin echipa lui de suport, presei, probabil ca urmare a numeroaselor incercari de a il contacta pentru a da informatii suplimentare despre ce se intampla acolo.

“Exista un timp pentru a actiona si un timp pentru a vorbi. De aceasta data suntem in prima situatie. Orice declaratie facuta in aceasta situatie nu poate nici sa ii aduca inapoi pe cei care au murit si nici sa ii ajute pe toti cei care sunt acum intr-o situatie de urgenta. In acest moment, ingerii pazitori sunt elicopterele, care sunt asteptate maine la prima ora, daca vremea permite, precum si toti cei care vor avea grija de cei raniti in aceasta noapte. Orice alte cuvinte ar insemna pentru mine o lipsa de respect fata de marea amaraciune si marea durere pe care le traiesc oamenii. Acesta este un timp al actiunii.” – Alex Gavan

Be safe, Alex. Everestul nu pleaca nicaieri.

Video cu avalansa de pe 25 aprilie:

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